Boat Trailer Brakes……

[Duffman]

Is anyone getting their brakes, specifically rotors to last more than 2 seasons? Growing real tired of all the brake replacements and failures I’ve had.

So far replaced all the brake lines. Original hard lines were run in frame so they rotted out quick. Ran new lines on the inside surface so I’m able to rinse them.

Replaced 2 reverse actuators in 4 years after solenoids went bad. Went to manual lockout which is a PIA but at least it lasts.

Rotors rot to hell no matter what brand or stainless BS they claim to be. I trailer 2 times a year. To the marina in spring and back home in the fall. A total of 8 miles all season. At this point I want to eliminate the brakes system all together.

Boat loaded is 3,000 pounds and my truck has no issue stopping the load. Thoughts?

[kevin kovach]

I have a 2014 sea lion tandem with stainless disc brakes. I haven't touched the brakes since the day I purchased it new, still work perfect every time I hook up. But when I purchased the trailer I upgraded to stainless brakes and stainless brakes lines. I'll look to see who made the brakes. I know what your going through, Previous trailer was a venture, I couldn't do more than 3 trips without pulling apart and redoing. I ended up taking the brakes off all together on that one.

[Duffman]

Originally Posted by kevin kovach

I have a 2014 sea lion tandem with stainless disc brakes. I haven't touched the brakes since the day I purchased it new, still work perfect every time I hook up. But when I purchased the trailer I upgraded to stainless brakes and stainless brakes lines. I'll look to see who made the brakes. I know what your going through, Previous trailer was a venture, I couldn't do more than 3 trips without pulling apart and redoing. I ended up taking the brakes off all together on that one.

Mine is a venture as well. No issues with the trailer itself. These brakes on the other hand are a thorn in my side.

So far have tried Kodak, Tie Down and Dexter setups and all 3 brands of rotors sucked. After this past spring launch I hosed them down and went so far as blowing them dry with a backpack blower. Prepping trailer now for haul out and rotors again looked liked rusted $hit. Gonna yank the whole assemblies off and see how it goes towing home.

[bulletbob]

what do you tow with??.. 3,000 lbs load towed with a modern relatively stout tow vehicle should not really need trailer brakes.. Especially on the very flat ground near the NJ shore.. Not many big hills to go down there.. In any case, it sounds like you are not hosing down your trailer after dunking in the salt water.. Even todays cheap chinese brake lines should not rust after a just a couple trips a year to salt water, but you MUST wash them down as soon as you get home.. If I were in your situation, I would install new lines, put new brakes/ actuators in if needed, Then paint everything with rustoleum, and grease every contact point where any metal touches metal with heavy bearing grease, including brake line fitting threads and nuts.. and then I would still wash everything down the instant I got home.. I towed to salt for years, and never any issues, because I hosed everything down, upon arrival home.. Its the only way.. Lots of observation, lots of grease, rust proof paint, and lots of hose downs... I burned out a bearing once years ago, on the highway {rt 35], and learned my lesson well.. Grease, washdowns, and awareness.... bob

[Duffman]

Originally Posted by bulletbob

what do you tow with??.. 3,000 lbs load towed with a modern relatively stout tow vehicle should not really need trailer brakes.. Especially on the very flat ground near the NJ shore.. Not many big hills to go down there.. In any case, it sounds like you are not hosing down your trailer after dunking in the salt water.. Even todays cheap chinese brake lines should not rust after a just a couple trips a year to salt water, but you MUST wash them down as soon as you get home.. If I were in your situation, I would install new lines, put new brakes/ actuators in if needed, Then paint everything with rustoleum, and grease every contact point where any metal touches metal with heavy bearing grease, including brake line fitting threads and nuts.. and then I would still wash everything down the instant I got home.. I towed to salt for years, and never any issues, because I hosed everything down, upon arrival home.. Its the only way.. Lots of observation, lots of grease, rust proof paint, and lots of hose downs... I burned out a bearing once years ago, on the highway {rt 35], and learned my lesson well.. Grease, washdowns, and awareness.... bob

Now that is one odd post.

[Slip It In]

I purchased a new Venture trailer 5-6 years ago. I also only use 2 times per year and have no more than 500miles. I always power wash the trailer every time and move back the caliper pistons slightly for storage. The brakes are in terrible shape, and I also just use manual reverse lockout. Brake pads are almost metal to metal. My boat and trailer are probably closer to 10,000 lbs. Next spring i will be weighing my options for brake replacement. New trailers have also significantly increased in price since I purchased mine.

I believe that in NJ under 3000lbs you are not required to have trailer brakes. I would consider that option if I was at your weight class for sure. But would double check. Would seriously limit the frustration that you are dealing with.

Best of luck

Peter

[frugalfisherman]

Get rid of the brakes and drive slow.

[Duffman]

Originally Posted by Slip It In

I purchased a new Venture trailer 5-6 years ago. I also only use 2 times per year and have no more than 500miles. I always power wash the trailer every time and move back the caliper pistons slightly for storage. The brakes are in terrible shape, and I also just use manual reverse lockout. Brake pads are almost metal to metal. My boat and trailer are probably closer to 10,000 lbs. Next spring i will be weighing my options for brake replacement. New trailers have also significantly increased in price since I purchased mine.

I believe that in NJ under 3000lbs you are not required to have trailer brakes. I would consider that option if I was at your weight class for sure. But would double check. Would seriously limit the frustration that you are dealing with.

Best of luck

Peter

Yeah officially done with brakes. Disabled everything for the ride home for its winter nap. Was concerned about the rusted rotors binding and overheating the hubs.

Without the brakes on the trailer had zero issues stopping or controlling the trailer. I either tow with a ‘12 Tundra or a ‘78 Bronco. Don’t think I’ll have an issue towing with either one.

Plan is to cap off the master but leave it on the trailer. Remove everything else and go to standard hubs instead of the rotor/ hubs.

When the day comes to sell I can just a brake kit again for the new buyer.

[kevin kovach]

These are the brakes on my trailer

[kevin kovach]