Holdover trout in lakes/res

[The Birdman]

Hey guys,

I am at a total loss when it comes to fishing for trout in holdover/trout lakes and reservoirs.
Next year I would like to give live lining/trolling for them a try a couple times.
I have some questions:

-tips on live lining bait and the use of strike guards?
-how to properly set the hook/when to set once the fish has taken the bait.
-trout & bait location when wind is pushing them
-properly fishing the water column
-optimal water temperature.
-the use of lead core and leaders
-the use of trolling artificial bait vs live bait and proper tackle for live bait.

I don't plan on hammering trout all year, I will prob go a couple times in the spring, mostly to nnj holdover lakes and maybe a trip off rt78. catch & release only (no pics posting/spot burns either! ).
I know these are VERY specific questions and any help is appreciated. PM's accepted & i can always trade info !!

Thanks, John

[briansnat]

-tips on live lining bait and the use of strike guards?

If it's not too windy, I'll drift with a shiner or herring hooked through the lips. I'll usually have a sinker on the line to get them down. How much sinker and how I rig it depends on how far down I want to get them.

If it's breezy I'll anchor up and fish them hooked through the back. Don't ask me why, it's just the way I've always done it.

I'll usually have three lines out if I'm "still fishing" alone and two if I'm with a partner. One rod will always have a free swimming bait on an open spool. Depending on the time of year and depth of water I may have another bait on a slip bobber and/or the bottom on a slip sinker.

I never used a Strike Guard. In fact I had to google it to see what it was.


-how to properly set the hook/when to set once the fish has taken the bait.

Not much to say here. Other than waiting to make sure the fish has actually taken the bait, for me hook set is no different than with any other kind of fishing.

trout & bait location when wind is pushing them

When you find out let me know.

-properly fishing the water column

In April I catch most of my trout near the surface, down to about 10 feet. The rest of the year a fish finder is essential to see where they are hanging out, and a downrigger and/or lead core to get it down to them.

-optimal water temperature.

I seem to do best when the water is between 50 and 65 degrees.

-the use of lead core and leaders

I use a 6 ft fluoro leader on my lead core rods and join the lines using an albright knot

-the use of trolling artificial bait vs live bait and proper tackle for live bait.

I never troll live bait. I know some people do, but if I'm trolling it's with artificials. For trout, blade baits like Binskys, small Shad Raps, Yo-Zuri Snap Beans,and small spoons like Cleo, Kastmaster, Dardevle, Phoebe and Warrior seem to work well for me.

As far as tackle for bait fishing for trout, I prefer a 6 1/2' to 7' ML spinning rod spooled with 6 or 8 lb test mono. For hooks I'll use a #2 or #4 circle.

[Rickhem]

I'm a long, long way from being as technically efficient as some here, but as has been mentioned before, trolling surface lures early in the season is effective, but it's a game of covering lots of water. Early season on Ontario, I've caught lots of big browns trolling jointed Rapalas, and those work in Jersey lakes too right after ice-out. Another effective technique is flutter spoons, again fished on flat-lines, and again, covering lots of water is key, but with flutter spoons, you go painfully slow. When trolling, the fish hook themselves. I've not done much trolling in warmer weather, so I'll leave that to those that have.
Once the lakes stratify, we've drifted herring in and just above the thermocline with success. This was way back when all I had was an old Lowrance green box flasher, and I really didn't know how to use it well to locate fish. Still, since most lakes I've checked have had the thermocline be about 15 to 18 feet, just set your herring at 12 to 18 feet (we used small egg sinkers on the main line, then a leader of ~18", and we staggered the depth of our baits) and wait them out. I also hooked them through a nostril, and used small circles. We also used Strike Guards and after a fish takes the bait, it's just a matter of reeling after that. When the drift is fast, remember to let out more line, and it's almost like live-bait trolling. When you find the fish (or they find you) it'll he busy for a while, but it is mostly a waiting game when drifting.

And don't write off smaller impoundments. Sheppard Lake has a good population of hold-overs and I've caught nice trout out of Barbour's Pond in Garrett Mountain a week before they closed the lake for stocking in the spring. It's nice to not have anyone else fishing these little bodies of water with you too.

[AndyS]

If you are going to be live lining for trout I say 6# test mono max. I do a lot of live lining for trout and never go above 6# test, I actually prefer 4# test mono. I stopped using strike guards a long time ago.
I found the best hook for live lining for trout is a Mustad 3906 thin wire fly tying hook. The hook is flat, not offset. When you set the hook it will not spin back into the bait but instead gives you a solid hook set, as far as size I have gone down as small as size 12 depending on the size of the bait and the biggest I go is a size 6.
Open bail, the bait with find the optimum water temp it wants, which so happens to bet the preferred water temp of the fish feeding on them.
Double anchor, bait and wait.
If the fish is gut hooked, DO NOT try to get your $0.06 hook back, cut the line as close to the hook as possible. The hook is thin wire with no bait barbs so it should rust out and fall out quickly.
I try to anchor up on a break or drop off.
Hope this helps.

[GetANet]

Nice info there Boyz... That should def get you started. Time on the water is key. Open water roamers that never stay in one spot for long or if at all.

[The Birdman]

Thanks guys for you advice & PM's, I really appreciate it !