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  #11  
Old 01-22-2014, 12:48 PM
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giantfan giantfan is offline
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Default Re: steel wreck anchors

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Originally Posted by dfish28 View Post
I got lucky one time on a wreck my anchor got gought up in some gear about 10-15' above the wreck, sat at zero scope banging away at small cod and ling, was about to throw in the towel and tie up a buoy to mark the spot and come back later to dive and get it, 1.5 hours in and great fishing it just let go, granted I'm sure it was caught on the tines , but my zip tie was too heavy to break... My point here is after talking with a few salts they also said to shackle up direct to the bottom with no chain only chafing gear like a piece of hose, because if your chain gets stuck your are lost. Just my .02
Very rare that my chain gets hung up and in my opinion it's well worth loosing an anchor every couple of years for the faster sink rate. I usually put 3-4 zip ties on it and have never had an issue breaking the zip ties with 17,000 pounds of boat and 740 horses pulling on it.
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  #12  
Old 01-22-2014, 03:14 PM
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Gerry Zagorski Gerry Zagorski is offline
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Default Re: steel wreck anchors

I like the softer tines too... Much easier going up to the bow and bending the tines back with a pipe if needed then having to redo the wire ties.
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2014, 08:36 AM
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reefsquater reefsquater is offline
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Default Re: steel wreck anchors

I also cover the times with cut out pieces of garden hose when in the boat to prevent damage to the boat.
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  #14  
Old 01-25-2014, 08:37 AM
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giantfan giantfan is offline
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Default Re: steel wreck anchors

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Originally Posted by Gerry Zagorski View Post
I like the softer tines too... Much easier going up to the bow and bending the tines back with a pipe if needed then having to redo the wire ties.
I actually find it much safer and easier to pull the anchor from the cockpit... the only trip to the bow is to cleat the line when we drop in and to un-cleat the line when pulling up.... I hate sending anyone to the bow at all in nothing but the most calm conditions.... I really don't want them to walk up to the bow with a pipe in their hands (leaving only one hand to hold on to the boat with) and perform surgery on the anchor. It seems whenever I'm bottom fishing it's always blowing 20
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  #15  
Old 01-25-2014, 09:29 AM
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Gerry Zagorski Gerry Zagorski is offline
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Default Re: steel wreck anchors

I hear you Giant. I have a Good Windlass and bought it specifically because it's one of the only ones I know of that you don't have to cleat off when at anchor.
Only reason to go up to the bow now is if the tines are bent really bad when you go to reset.

Was out on our last boat (no windlass) when it was pretty sporty. Had issues holding and had to reset. Went up to the bow to reset and when I pulled the line in I put it on the deck rather than in the anchor locker. When I went to reset the line almost got tangled up on my ankle and pulled me into the drink

Right then and there I decided no more bow for me. I'm way too clumsy.
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  #16  
Old 01-25-2014, 10:32 AM
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giantfan giantfan is offline
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Default Re: steel wreck anchors

Yeah.... I have a Good too but trying to get the anchor on to the deck to zip tie or repair the tines is so much harder to grab from under the pulpit...... over the rail...... I just do the wreck anchor by hand.... or go to the New Grounds and use my main anchor

Pros and cons for everything when it comes to fishing/boating.....
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  #17  
Old 02-02-2014, 08:43 PM
Capt. Lou Capt. Lou is offline
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Default Re: steel wreck anchors

I've always felt its safer. & easier to pop a stubborn anchor from cockpit. UR winch may not get the job done , so I always ran my wreck anchor from cockpit chocked bow & if stuck floated an oversize ball to assist in the breakaway !
Usually got it up using several methods but my boat weighed in @ 17 k + & usually pop the anchor if it was a wreck style .
It's cumbersome to dislodge or work on an anchor via bow route .
Tuna anchoring ditto always floated via cockpit , anchored as well ,
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