First boat - returning to NJ.com

[Matt L]

Thanks. Bought the lifejackets last weekend. somewhat comfortable basic types from cabella for about 10 bucks a piece. Of course got myself the auto inflate suspender type. I have most of the safety equipment except the vhf radio. Will probably get a portable for simplicity. Looking at a Uniden 250 for about 100 bucks. Amazing how quick all this stuff adds up. I'll be in an extra grand before the boat hits the water. 400 for tune up impeller+safety equipment 200+wiring I need to do 150+radio 100 + bilge 125....

Thanks for the advice. I have fished the area quite a bit and done well but mostly from shore. Also have rented boats from the local places and of course the party boats.

[Capt. Debbie]

Rumson ramp is now $100. Just paid it. You must use the channel. At low tide if you come straight out there is an island that protrudes E-W from out of the water and you'll need wheels to get over the top of it. The stick channel exits into the main river right in front of the Ocean Bridge a few hundred yards further west of the ramp's langoon.

RUNNING WIRES:
I created a raceway to run wires aft and forward. Get some thin wall PVC tubing. 3/4 inch is ideal. Bigger if it'll fit. It can be glued or not glued in sections to fit underneath. And run the PVC between the seats and floor if you can. MUST be done on a warm day. The PVC is quite flexable. More so if heated. But when winter cold, it becomes extreme brittle and will snap.

I keep my 12 gallon fuel tank forward in the box to better balance the boat on plane. 12 gallon x 6#/gal= 72 pounds. Balancing my fat a*s in the back slightly for better planing.

My dual cycle battery, is kept within an ordinary black plastic battery box, is located aft under the O/B tiller and next to the bilge pump/switch. I have all my electronic equipment power lines going into the battery box.

Last year I installed a 6 position fuse block under the battery box lid and ran all the equipment, excluding the bilge pump, to the fuse block. Came out very clean.

Capt. Frank

[Matt L]

Frank.

I was thinking of trying the same sort of thing. Use the PVC to snake under the floor to the front of the boat where the battery will be. It's a big battery and the trolling motor is up there so that is where it will likely have to stay. Run the connections from the battery to the back of the boat. Still trying to figure out what gauge wire to use. Probably 10-12 outdoor wire.

Then open a small hole in the floor just in front and to the side of the back seat. Run the pvc though it and into a box. Buy a 5 switch panel and connect everything inside the box. Seal every hole with epoxy. That is the path I am on right now.

It all depends on being able to snake the pvc to the front of the boat.

[Capt. Debbie]

two concerns:

#1 Marine wire is very very multi strand for flexibility. Unlike standard NEC household wiring like stranded wire THHN or THHW it will be wiggling from boat movement. The insulation for these are fine for a marine environment, but you need a starnded (never solid) wire with lots of strands.
Example is auto jumper cables which are extremely flexible b/c the # of strands in the #6 or #8 AWG wire used is much higher. Open it up and it looks like each conductor strand is a little thicker than a hair. Household wiring may carry the same current- but it is not meant to take the bouncing and over time and individual conductor strands will break and create hot spots inside the wire.

Item #2 WIRING AMPACITY:
#18 AWG copper conductors 5 amps
#16 AWG copper 10 amps
#14 AWG copper rated for 20 but de-rated by NEC to 15 amps
#12 AWG copper is good for 20 amps
#10 AWG copper is good for 30 amps

Not many things in a set up like we are taking about are high current draws. Most things will be far less than 5 amps like GPS, VHF's, and FF's. We are not talking radar and a half dozen spreader lights.

My experience is the best wiring connections are made by- soldering, liquid electrical tape over that solder and finally cover that all with shrink tubing.

I hope this may be a lttle more helpful.

Capt. Frank

[Capt. Debbie]

Breaker panels are poorly suited. They take up way too much space and aren't really intended to get wet regularly.

Originally Posted by Matt L

Frank.

I was thinking of trying the same sort of thing. Use the PVC to snake under the floor to the front of the boat where the battery will be. It's a big battery and the trolling motor is up there so that is where it will likely have to stay. Run the connections from the battery to the back of the boat. Still trying to figure out what gauge wire to use. Probably 10-12 outdoor wire.

Then open a small hole in the floor just in front and to the side of the back seat. Run the pvc though it and into a box. Buy a 5 switch panel and connect everything inside the box. Seal every hole with epoxy. That is the path I am on right now.

It all depends on being able to snake the pvc to the front of the boat.

[fishbox22]

Matt
You sure got a lot of information here, Yes it is expensive.
Don't go cheap on safety.
A GPS is nice but not a have to have now, A depth sounder I would say is a now or as soon as possible item.
I don't know if you got a safety package with your boat. If you had to buy life jackets I would expect you did not.
You will need an anchor, Anchor rode (line).
I believe you need a licence to operate any boat in NJ.
An instruction course is available on this site or several other places.
A Coast Guard Aux course or Power Squadron is available in many towns.
They are not expensive and keep you aware of right from wrong. NOT THAT EVERYONE KNOWS THAT. When you operate your boat you should be Defence all the time.
Take the boat out a few times with someone else that can help you before you take your children.
Your BIO does not tell what town you live in.

[Matt L]

Everyone is great in this thread. I appreciate everyones help and hopefully I can return the favor at some point.

The boat has most of the safetyequipment but I wanted to replace the standard orange life vests with more comfortable ones for the kids and adults.

I have pretty much everything including a flare gun. Need the VHF. Have a fishfinder but need to get the electric run.

I didn't know about the course but looks like it is mandatory. I am sure I can benefit from it. I will likely get the boat out in two weeks in a local lake here and get used to it. Gotta get the electric worked out. Then stripers and blues !!!

Like I said earlier, I am real nervous about the whole thing and extremely safety conscious. 4 years in the military will do that for you.

[Capt. Debbie]

Capt. Matt- check your private messages.

Capt. Frank

[fishbox22]

MATT
I am sure there are people that would be glad to go out with you until you learn how to operate everything.

[Matt L]

Again, thanks for everyone's help.

Here is where we stand so far. Motor is at shop for the tuneup.


Used half inch pvc and snaked it under the boat. Used a T to pop it up under the front bench with the battery. Used the T to continue the run for the front lights. Lights are blocked from the back by the trolling motor and this would be a pain to take on and off so I think a back pole light may go in to. There is already a hole drilled.

Marine Wire - searched for the best deals I could because it is more expensive then you might think. Snaked 12 gauge for the power and am gonna use 14 gauge and 16 gauge for the accessories. All the wires terminate inside the back bench compartment.

pumps - bought 1500 gph rule for bilge, float switch, and livewell pump. Boat has a 20 gallon livewell so why not set it up for use. peanuts maybe? Pump equipment is being run via short separate pvc. I will need to secure the pvc, just have to find the right solution. Its not complicated.

So all the wires terminate under the rear bench storage. Have a 3 way switch for the bilge, 5 way switch with socket for the accessories livewell and lights.

Still have to figure out how exactly the bilge hose will exit the boat.

Box for the switch is next. Thursday probably. Have to finish by Saturday when I pick up the motor.

Thanks everyone