Electronics wiring question....

[Duffman]

Are your electronics hooked directly to a power source or powered through a dash switch?

My FF, plotter, VHF and cd/fm radio are all getting power through two dash mounted toggle switches. So basically each unit has 2 power on switches. The toggle and the power on button of each unit.

Makes no sense to me? Been like this for years. Plan on some electrical upgrades this winter which will include new circuits and a fuse block.

Just looking to see if anyone else's rig is set up this way. Thanks.

[giantfan]

Not sure what the correct answer is but mine are hooked directly to a fuse block with no accessory switch.... boat came from the factory that way (Tiara/Pursuit.) I use my battery switch to shut everything down when not on the boat so nobody can come on the boat, turn on my machines and get #'s

[BCinerie]

I have all my electronics hooked to a power bar that has a fuse on it. That bar is connected to my main power switch. I also have inline fuses to the equipment. The main switch powers everything but the bilge pumps , they are hard wired to the batteries!

[Walleyed]

Originally Posted by BCinerie

I have all my electronics hooked to a power bar that has a fuse on it. That bar is connected to my main power switch. I also have inline fuses to the equipment. The main switch powers everything but the bilge pumps , they are hard wired to the batteries!

+1. Bilge float switches should always be hard wired to the house battery bank. There should be no way of disabling them. Get rid of that 3-way switch (off, auto, on) and re-wire with a 2-way (on & auto).

As for the rest, power off your main power bus. You can either provide discrete fused circuits or go directly off the bus with an inline fuse. All crimp connectors should be waterproof, heat shrink and self-sealing....ancor makes great ones....no soldered connections...solder joints are brittle and boat vibrations will cause them to fail every time.

Ok...I'm done.

[Capt. Debbie]

Some people like a single master switch for electronics, The sea tow boats use a big Guest battery selector switch to turn off everything but the bilge pump with it's own always on float switch.

A one on one switched instrument with it's "on switch" on the device is dumb and shows misunderstanding of purpose. It's like two in line fuses. More to go wrong and no benefit.

[Capt. Debbie]

I've got soldered connections in the bilge and trailer that never fail in a boat I bought new in 1983. Bilge connections are wholly under water at times. Solder is the best airtight water tight connection you can make. If done correctly.
If done right. The right soldering iron with enough heat makes a difference. The solder flows like it is being absorbed. Not just lays in puddles on top.

My bilge pump/switch, my VHF, VHF Antenna, Plotter, FF and AM/FM are all soldered and I have had no connection lapses in decades. SO are a my readily dunked trailer lights solder connected.

If you do solder it correctly it lasts. Yes it does take more time than crushing a crimp. And I do also use shrink tubing to cover it and dress it up. That does nothing for the electrical connections. But looks good. Clear tubing is best as you can see if there is water intrusion of not

Crimp connections are not air or water tight on both ends- look at spade and ring crimps. You get wicking into the conductors themselves under the insulation. Ever notice when you strip the wire back even UNDER the insulation is greened up too?

Originally Posted by Walleye Wisherman

+1. Bilge float switches should always be hard wired to the house battery bank. There should be no way of disabling them. Get rid of that 3-way switch (off, auto, on) and re-wire with a 2-way (on & auto).

As for the rest, power off your main power bus. You can either provide discrete fused circuits or go directly off the bus with an inline fuse. All crimp connectors should be waterproof, heat shrink and self-sealing....ancor makes great ones....no soldered connections...solder joints are brittle and boat vibrations will cause them to fail every time.

Ok...I'm done.

[Duffman]

Thanks Gents.

Like I said, making some changes this winter and doing upgrades. Never an issue with bilge pump(s) wiring..... got that covered. Only issue is the dash toggle powering the electronics. Never made sense to me? I'm changing how it was wired from the factory.

As far as solder vs crimps....Been soldering connections for a long time and never an issue. But then again, what do I know....

[Capt. Debbie]

Well put!

Originally Posted by Duffman

Thanks Gents.


As far as solder vs crimps....Been soldering connections for a long time and never an issue. But then again, what do I know....

[jimmythegreek]

Having a dash switch is fine, BUT you want that to be master power which you will wire inline to the main bus bar that you have or install. I like to use at least a 20 amp circuit for freshwater and 30amp for salty boats. The bus bars are avail at any marine supply and are fused right at the bus bar, the micro fuses are great and easy to replace on a pinch all gas stations have them and small stores. You then run a proper guage wire to your equip and you are all set, as said your bilge(s) should be fused and wired directly to the house battery. I also install a second main fuse right at the battery terminal of the same master feed guage, you want this in the event of a dead short so you do no damage to any wiring that is already run/hidden/unaccessible so that any melted damaged wiring is right at the battery before that fusable link. I prefer having a master power switch so that you know your battery will never drain leaving a radio on or an accessory. This is how most new boats are equipped OEM from the manufacturer, and what a battery switch does in most boats

[Gerry Zagorski]

Yeah - I like those new bus bars with the new style fuses.

One other thing to also consider if you are wiring the boat with a starting and house battery is battery isolater.

http://all-about-lead-acid-batteries...solators-work/