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  #11  
Old 08-26-2014, 01:52 PM
BCinerie BCinerie is offline
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Smile Re: Boat battery

Capt-


Am I doing it wrong?? My thought process is when running is to charge and maintain both batteries and when I stop or troll turn switch to #1 or #2 just not the both setting so I isolate 1 of the batteries so if there is a electrical drain I still have 1 battery to start main motor?? . I run all my electrical components through the fuse box and that is hooked through the main switch. Nothing is direct wired to the batteries. SO am I good??


I also carry a 3d battery that is not hooked up to anyhting!! I duck hunt and in december and January there is not a soul around for help!!!!
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  #12  
Old 09-02-2014, 10:54 AM
SandsharkPolar SandsharkPolar is offline
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Default Re: Boat battery

I actually had success with the Walmart deep cycle batteries. I have some going on 4 years with no problems.
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  #13  
Old 09-02-2014, 11:54 AM
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Capt. Frank Capt. Frank is offline
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Default Re: Boat battery

Trace out what wire goes to where.

The engines charge battery. How is that connected? Through switch or direct? The batteries should be charging. If you have one engine and two batteries use an isolator. That was the batteries re only tied together when charging from running engine. It's got a diode that only allows power in, and not out to the other battery. The Guest Selector switch or which ever you have can parallel them.

Bilge pumps should typically NOT be switched and are best hard wired to a battery.

The ideal set up is one battery is dedicated to cranking engine(s) only. That's it. The other battery(s) does house power for everything. In theory the cranking battery should be fine unless the ignition is left on all day long and it drains.

The switch should swing load to the house battery. The cranking battery. Or both batteries. Normally this load is always left on house battery or off position.

A 3rd back up battery is typically a simple on / off switch disconnected from all. Thats the one that needs to be switched in to charge up.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BCinerie View Post
Capt-


Am I doing it wrong?? My thought process is when running is to charge and maintain both batteries and when I stop or troll turn switch to #1 or #2 just not the both setting so I isolate 1 of the batteries so if there is a electrical drain I still have 1 battery to start main motor?? . I run all my electrical components through the fuse box and that is hooked through the main switch. Nothing is direct wired to the batteries. SO am I good??


I also carry a 3d battery that is not hooked up to anyhting!! I duck hunt and in december and January there is not a soul around for help!!!!
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  #14  
Old 11-10-2014, 05:44 PM
Dupes Dupes is offline
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Default Re: Boat battery

I use Kirkland's. One of them is 6 years old and still working fine. Got a new one last year to replace a 5 year old battery.
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  #15  
Old 11-10-2014, 09:09 PM
dennis461 dennis461 is offline
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Location: Atco, NJ
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Default Re: Boat battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by BCinerie View Post
I just had a battery go bad this weekend, of course 13 months old on a 12 month warranty! Second time that happened in3 years. My question is what is everyone running. Brand size etc. my boat is a 20.5 lund center console with 140 evinrude, have a dual battery set up with battery switch. What size and brand do you think ?

Thx bc
Perhaps it's not a battery problem, but a charger problem or something draining the battery. Cold weather will make the problem worse, so every winter you need a new battery; works fine rest of the year?
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  #16  
Old 11-28-2014, 12:44 AM
deyankeeclipper deyankeeclipper is offline
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Default Re: Boat battery

Deka Marine Master batteries.
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  #17  
Old 11-29-2014, 12:27 PM
gsx99 gsx99 is offline
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Default Re: Boat battery

i dont even take my batteries out for the winter always hooked up to a battery tender multibank self diagnostic/ yes it cost 300 bucks but well worth not hauling out each year and re installing.
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2015, 10:46 AM
Ken Lyons Ken Lyons is offline
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Default Re: Boat battery

I just saw this post. It's a topic about which I really do know something so I weigh in. It' always surprising to me when I read about battery failure after such short periods of time. As far as the wiring goes i defer to Capt Frank but as to the batteries themselves why do people insist on using wet cell batteries on boats? At the very least the trolling motor should be hooked up separately to a deep cycle AGM sized to fit. I don' t care how much more they cost. Wouldn't you rather make an investment than commit to. A series of payments? You just can't kill these things. Forget about battery tenders. I have a 55 AH that has sat in my unheated garage for two years and still shows a full charge. I picked up two 17AH's from a friend that were both reading slightly over 6 volts. I wired them in parallel and put them on a 2 amp charge. It took 36 hours but I used them without incident for months until I sold them along with a boat.
Optima's aren't the only choice. Try Batterymart.com.
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  #19  
Old 02-27-2015, 07:01 PM
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jimmythegreek jimmythegreek is offline
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Default Re: Boat battery

I have had good luck w the walmart deepcycles as well, and last year I tried battery plus brand cause i needed group 31s for trolling batteries, and a AGM dual purpose for starting battery, both excellent batteries in AH capacity and CCAs, most are rebranded deka batteries on the inside anyways
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  #20  
Old 02-28-2015, 08:41 AM
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Charlie B Charlie B is offline
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Default Re: Boat battery

Only problem with re-branded store brand batteries is you might have good luck with them. Then 5 years later you go to replace them they might be a different battery from a different vendor... Charlie
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