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Old 04-17-2014, 08:53 PM
Gerry Zagorski's Avatar
Gerry Zagorski Gerry Zagorski is offline
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Default Getting Boat Ready For Spring

It’s the time of year to start getting the boat ready to launch. Thought it might help some others to give some tips on provisioning outboards and I/O boats for a spring launch.

First thing I like to do is to change the fluid in the lower unit. This is essentially the same procedure on I/O and outboards. Be sure to do this in daylight because you’re going to want to inspect the fluid. If it's milky or has and metal filings in it this is trouble. It should be black like used car oil. If it's milky you have a leaky seal and you should have the unit pressure tested to find the leak. If there are metal filings in it it could mean you have a problem as well so have it checked. If everything is OK the refill the drive with the recommended fluid. Best way to so this is to remove the upper fluid screw and the bottom fluid screw and fill the unit through the bottom screw hole until the fluid comes out the top. The reason you fill from the bottom is because if you were to fill it from the top you can get air pockets in the unit and you won't have enough fluid in there once that air pocket collapses. Filling it from the bottom pushes all the air out the top screw as the fluid displaces it.

OK next is the engine. If you have an I/O first thing you do is change the oil. Change it before you start the engine. The reason is that there’s likely to be some condensation and sediments in the old oil from winter lay up and you don't want that oil trying to lube your engine. While you’re at it change the oil filter too. I like to use synthetic oil in my boat for 2 reasons. 1, you can go longer between oil changes and 2, boat engines typically work much harder then car engines and synthetics help protect the engine better and it prolongs engine life.

Next thing on an I/O or an outboard is to change the fuel filer/water separator. If you don't have one of theses I would recommend you get one. Racor makes great after market filter. If you get water in your fuel it separates the water before it gets to the engine and collects it in a small bowl on the filter which can be drained by opening up the petcock on the bottom of the filter. If the water gets into your engine it can a) cause big trouble or b) cause the boat to run rough or not at all. Fuel separators are one of the best yet least expensive insurance policies for your engine. If you get caught with fuel in your tanks off shore you can just keep opening the petcock and remove the water so you can at least make it home…

Finally change your zincs. On an I/O you usually have one or a few on the out drive and if you are fresh water cooled, and important one (pencil zinc) in the heat exchanger. If you have an outboard you probably have one below the water line somewhere. Zincs are probably one of the most important things to keep on top of, especially if you keep your boat in a slip… They act as sacrificial anodes. They are made of softer metal (zinc) and they sacrifice themselves to the effects of electrolysis caused by stray current in the marinas. They get eaten up rather then your drive prop or lower end. Make sure the zincs are grounded properly and remove any paint behind them so they are in contact with the bare metal… You also do not want to paint them and keep your bottom paint out of contact with them.



Now I usually get the engine running. Make sure you don't run your engine dry because it will cause your water pump to fail prematurely. Run the boat on the hose or get it into the water. Allow the engine to get up to operating temperature and burn off all the fogging spray you should have put in it before you stored it for the winter.

Now shut the boat down and let the motor cool so you can change the spark plugs since they are likely to be fouled from burning off all that fogging spray. On outboard I change the plugs every year since they are more susceptible to fouling. On I/Os I change every other season.

One other thing I would recommend… You should change your water pump at least every other year. If you were frequently running in mud or sand then I’d do it every year. Water pump impellers are usually made of a soft rubber compound. Once it starts to dry out or stiffen up it will disintegrate and loose it’s ability to pump water. This usually happens over the winter lay up and it can cause serous overheating issues particularly on outboards because the power heads are made of aluminum which does not stand up to or dissipate heat as well as cast iron blocks. If you have an I/O the pump is either in the drive or you have a raw water pump connected to a pulley on the engine in which case it’s easy to replace. You just remove the back place of the raw water pump and install the new impeller. Outboards and I/O with the pumps in the drive are best left to mechanics unless you’re really handy. The kits usually come with instructions.

One tip for outboard owners. You should de-carbon your engine at least once a season. Carbon is the number one enemy of outboards. Carbon build up reduces the rings and pistons ability to dissipate heat. If they can’t dissipate heat it can and will cause premature power head failure. I’d say this is one of the most common but avoidable problems with outboards. Most outboard manufacturers have their own de-carbon sprays. Follow the instructions on the can. In general you spray this stuff in the carbs until you choke the engine with it. You then let it sit for a few hours then take the boat out and run it at wide open throttle for a few minutes. The motor will smoke like one of those old mosquito trucks for a few minutes but I guarantee you will have an appreciable difference in engine performance before and after.


As far as bottom paint, I have been using multi-season ablative paint the past few seasons and love it. The reason I use it is because the paint lasts multiple seasons and you only need to re-coat where the paint has worn through to the hull. Single season paint requires you to repaint the entire hull each year and rough up the bottom prior to painting. This is a messy job and after a few years you have a bunch of coats of paint on your bottom making your boat slower.

Some other tips contributed by other board members :
Got a good tip from Fred at Dosils Trailer Center.. Just before you put the boat into the water give the hubs 1-2 squirts of grease while they are still hot... this way when the cooler water hits the wheels it will help pull the new grease in and the old junk out, which adds valuable time to the life of the bearings....He told me most people make the mistake of shooting grease in before they leave their house or before they leave the ramp to go home..... I was one of them till now.....

The biggest trailer problem, LIGHTS!! Actually I have been pulled over for a trailer light out at 4:00 in the morning (Woodbridge of course) and some bayshore area police look for that on the way home in early afternoon. Whether you have bell housing or sealed lights, put a dab of grease on the brass of the bulb to prevent corrosion, and while you're waiting on line at the ramp unplug your lighting connection. Hot bulbs do not like a quick cooling!! Another problem is not to rely on your winch for a bow tie down. A seperate cable is a good idea. Ask the guy on the Turnpike Wednesday that saw his boat pass him

at 55 mph!!!

Thermostats on the outboard are a good thing to change. This keeps your engine at the correct temperature. If neglected they can stick and cause overheating. Outboards do not like heat…

Greasing certain parts of the boat are important… prop shaft splines, all the fittings on the outboard, and especially the steering cable. Nothing is worse than looking forward to going fishing and ending up having to spend an hour or more freeing up a corroded steering cable. I installed a grease fitting on the end of the cable housing just for this reason. Also, a mechanic at the dealership where I bought my boat told me to put a dab of grease on the ball end of each of the two shafts that come from the outboard bracket, between the motor and transom(150 Mercury). This of course has to be done with the outboard tilted up.

If you have an I/O it’s always good to check the universal joints which are inside the bellows of the stern drive. Many have grease fittings. Oh yeah… Don’t use any old grease use grease formulated for marine use.
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2014, 09:35 AM
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Capt. Debbie Capt. Debbie is offline
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Default Re: Getting Boat Ready For Spring

A good and timely set of tips.
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